There had been no white shoes at Rose’s first Mardi Gras. She thought that was the way it should be. There’s no room for hip white shoes at a parade, she thought. People should try to have some flair.
It wasn’t that she could ever say it. But she knew New Orleans and she felt New Orleans. And she had watched New Orleans parade past her for so many years, and she felt and what she knew was that it could never give you what you wanted. It might give you something you asked for, if you asked for a few extra pounds or the best Bloody Mary you’ve ever had or your first bite of alligator. Rose wanted the New Orleans of her youth and the first year of her marriage and a daughter who stayed out too late. Rose wondered if she wanted too much.
She thought that New Orleans should be famous for a lot of things. It should be famous for its streets, southern-sweet and oak-framed. It should be famous for its houses plucked straight from the plantation, for better of for worse. It’s famous for beignets and Bourbon Street and hurricanes that destroy and Hurricanes that come over the bar in a cup over ice. And she knew it should be.
But she also knew it should be also for famous for color. Color. Not just purple, green, and gold, those colors that shout New Orleans in the ears and eyes of whoever sees them. New Orleans should be famous for its red and orange and shadowy black and grey, the twilight colors, hot spark on flint. The colors of a hot day sinking back onto the city and dragging the Sun through the streets behind it. New Orleans never cools off after sunset.
Mardi Gras was done right an egg and catfish sandwich, an Abita, an hour of sleep and a shot of Fireball, she thought. Not on a nice soft bed and an outfit laid out the night before and bright white shoes scrubbed clean of the red clay that came out of the ground when it rained. People should let their feet get dirty sometimes.
She thought it had been boots at her first parade. Green shin-high boots.
She put both hands on the porch railing and leaned forward. She saw a pair of black boots. She wondered why it was all black boots and white sneakers. She thought about the white boots her daughter would have worn. She didn’t have much say over what anyone in her family wore anymore. A daughter might have still asked to borrow something from her closet on a parade day. Gil had always talked about kids. Then he thought Clay had been enough for Rose to handle. For a while, he had been. She was a new mother and Clay was a new son. A young mother raising a young son in that maternal city. Her turn to train him had ended quickly and he had bound to Gil before she had emptied herself for him. Gil fathered by admonition and information and he abided his son through Jesuit and Lafayette and LSU Law and this first month back home. Rose had done what her mother had done and taken Clay everywhere. Her mother had taken Rose everywhere and introduced her to everyone and Rose understood. She was meant to be in the city and of the city in whatever way she chose.
Now she was left on her lawyer husband’s porch hearing her lawyer’s son apply everywhere in town and ask his father which Baton Rouge firms were growing and she was left wanting to ask how a downtown office could be better than a one-story in Mid-City.
“Look at all these white shoes,” said Rose.
“Where?”
“Walking down the sidewalk right in front of you, Gil,” said Rose.”
“Oh, sure, you mean all those Tulane girls?”
“How do you know they’re Tulane?”
“That girl’s shirt says ‘Green Wave,” said Gil.
“I didn’t know those eyes still worked that well.”
“When you tell me to look at some college girls they do.”
Rose turned back towards Gil and smirked.
“I just wanted you to look at their shoes.”
“I guess they’re all wearin’ sort of the same pair, huh?”
“All of them, Gil. They all wear those white sneakers with the little green mark on the heel.”
“Well ain’t that something. Where do you think they’re headed?”
“Which parade is today?”
“Is it Dionysus today?”
“No, Dionysus was Sunday. I think its Krewe d’Etat today.”
“Is it Wednesday already? I’ll be damned.”
“Of course it’s Wednesday. You’re holding the paper in your hands.”
“Didn’t even heck the date, Rose. Skipped rights to Sports.”
“Check the parade schedule.”
“Is it on the back page?”
“Second to last page in the Picayune.”
“That’s right. Yes m’am, Krewe d’Etat today.”
“You think they’ll stay down by the parade route”
“They sure seem to always come back around campus. We’re in for a loud night.”
She knew Gil was right. Krewe d’Etat ran down Jefferson and Napolean and turned onto Magazine just at its end. It was too far from Bourbon Street for the kids to want to make the walk. Rose had made that walk. It was long enough to sober up. No one wanted that. So they would drift back to Loyala by the end of the night. Around 1 or 2, early enough to bring the parade noise back with them and late enough to need one or six more Abitas.
“Yep, they’ll be back. Back with all their white shoes.”
Gil paused halfway through a laugh.
“Don’t worry about the shoes, honey. Next year it’ll be black shoes.”
Rose shook her head.
“I hope not. Some red shoes would be nice. Maybe they’ll all wear orange. I
“Uh-huh.”
Gil had turned back to the sports page. The Saints had lost again and there were columns to read about the struggles of the defensive line.
Rose sat down in one of the purple rockers next to Gil’s favorite white wicker chair. He never used the purple or gold rockers just the staunch, boxy white. She hadn’t wanted to move it from the backyard to the porch. She thought it looked dull from the street, but he wanted to sit in it when he read the paper. It was the only thing he had asked for in the house. Everything else was Rose. She had always thought her honeymoon had really begun in that house and on that porch. They had gone to Maine after the wedding, but only because it seemed like the proper thing to do. Rose had sat in their rented house and watched the lake begin to freeze. She cooked Gil breakfast each morning and declined his invitations for hikes after the first day. She had packed both of their bags on Friday for their flight home on Sunday. Other couples liked to tell stories about they had missed return flights after their honeymoon because they just couldn’t seem to get out of bed. Rose and Gil were at the airport early and landed ten minutes ahead of schedule.
He shrunk into the chair, enclosed in its tall white rectangle, while she always thought he looked better in a purple rocker, stately on their dark stained porch.
She put her feet up on the stool in front of the rocker.
Gil sat with his feet square on the floor in his tan loafers, ankles sockless beneath his cargo pants.
“Do you remember your first big parade night?”
“I think it was Orpheus.”
“How old were you?”
“I was probably 10. Feels like a long time ago.”
“It was a long time ago, Gil.”
She still wondered why he didn’t remember more.
“I guess you’re right.”
“Do you wish you remembered it all?”
“I’ve seen plenty of parades since then. Can’t remember ‘em all.”
Rose wondered how many of hers she could remember. Gil was right, it couldn’t be all of them. But she had tried. In elementary school and high school and middle school and college she wouldn’t leave a parade until she had caught a crew bead, marked with the crew logo and year. When she was old enough, she realized a simple lift of the shirt was enough for a whole bag of crew beads. Before that, she would hurry along the route after the parade, picking up bead after bead until she found the one she needed.
He didn’t ask if she remembered all of hers.
“Mine was Argus. I think I was fifteen. My mom took my sisters and I shopping before. She sure wasn’t going to let us buy any white shoes. Couldn’t wear those to a parade then.”
“No ma’am, I don’t think you could.”
She turned to look at Gil and opened her mouth but closed it again. He hadn’t moved in his chair and he was only getting deeper into his third Saints column.
She thought about those tall green boots. Her mother would have insisted on a long yellow dress to go with them. Maybe a string or two of beads. White or purple. Nothing too gaudy.
“Do you remember those boots I had when I was nineteen?” asked Rose.
“Mhhmm. The brown ones?”
“No, the green ones.”
“You got rid of those after you ripped them,” said Gil.
“I got them fixed.”
“Oh. Those stood out more than those white shoes, anyway.”
“That’s why I wore them so much.”
“I think you look better in brown boots,” said Gil.
She had bought a new pair of brown boots to watch him in court for the first time. Green didn’t feel right for the courtroom. It was all brown suits and blue ties and black robes. Hardly any more seersucker suits. Maybe a white-haired judge could pull one off on a Friday if his caseload wasn’t out of hand, but she was hoping for one or two lawyers in seersucker or white. She was disappointed when there wasn’t even one.
She had laid out his royal blue suit for him the night before. Her favorite suit of his. She wanted to put out the pink tie, too, but she knew he wouldn’t go for that. Better to hedge her bets. Blue suit, light blue tie, white shirt.
It was closing arguments so he was up before her and put away the blue suit. When he was younger, he would wake up with his moussed hair still in place from the night before. He would wear whatever she had hung up in the closet and she would watch him dress. For this first trip to courthouse, he was dressed and in the car waiting for her before she had brushed her teeth. He wore a brown suit and a green tie. He had kept the white shirt.
He told her it was an assault case. He spread himself all over the courtroom, gripping railings theatrically, maneuvering from the judge to the jurors to the nose of his opposition, serious and grave and stern and unrelenting as a wet season flood in his brown suit and white shirt. She had wished there was more color in the courtroom.
Maybe that blue suit would have looked silly. Gil was lanky, but not the kind of lanky that made a tight suit look good. Rose thought that his tight suits disguised his thin wrists. He had always worn his suits tight because a regular cut hung off him arms and the suit sleeves made his wrists look far too think for a Louisiana man of the law. When she didn’t dress him, he favored grey suits and solid ties. Even in the blue suit, he still would have won. That’s what people would remember. She had wanted him to win in what she had picked out so she could remember him that way.
“What time do you figure we’ll have to close the windows tonight?” she asked.
“No later than nine, I bet,” said Gil. “Those houses on the next block always get loud real early. And it might rain.”
“Hmm. I wonder how long Clay will be out tonight.”
“Who knows? I thought I heard him come back at eleven last night.”
“That’s early.”
“I like when he’s back early.”
“He needs to stay out late tonight. These are his prime parade years.”
Rose knew Clay had been home by 10:30 the night before. She wished more people would appreciate a late night.
10:30 wasn’t late enough. The drive-through daiquiri store wasn’t even open when he had come back home. She had always loved the after-parade hours in the streets. If the drive-through daiquiri place hadn’t opened yet, it was too early to come home. After the parade, after the bars, after the house party, after the last beer picked up from the 24-hour corner store. The streets covered in broken beads and shattered bottles and abandoned chairs and coolers and bras and shirts and lone shoes and sometimes pants. That was when she used to like to sit on the curb and look up at the tree branches sagging with beads and look at the colors in the dark as it turned to light.
That had been her favorite part of her first night with Gil.
It had been their senior year at Tulane and he had asked her to go to Bacchus with him. It was the last big parade of their last parade season. They had know each other since their first week of classes. It wasn’t Rose’s first parade date. If they didn’t end with sitting on the curb looking up and at each other it wasn’t going anywhere. Gil and her had sat on the curb watching the streets empty for two hours. The streets wouldn’t be truly empty until the next morning. When they were mostly empty, they lay back on the blanket Gil had brought in case they became tired of standing. They laid back and looked at the sky turn from blue to black to purple and tried to spot beads falling from the trees.
She had hoped they would do it every year after every parade.
Gil was still sitting on the porch.
Clay knocked on the door that led from the kitchen to the porch.
Rose asked him if he was going to Krewe d’Etat.
He planned on staying in.
Rose asked what he had done last night.
Clay said he had been at The Boot for a couple hours. Had two drinks and left his friends. Clay thought the guy singing was making the song up as he went along. She knew the guy he meant. Or one close enough. The Boot had a type. He would sing with the house band for a week or two and leave before anyone had to watch him twice. He would be wearing a black vest and a round, grey hat. He would bounce side-to-side on the stage in the corner of the bar and spin back towards. He would hold a long note and grin wide. His lips would stretch garish, spanning jaw. The bass line would start again and he would turn towards his band, the grin gone. Clay had thought he was a decent show. She knew he would have his good nights and his bad nights.
He had told her that the men at the crawfish stand were eating them raw. She knew which stand he meant, two blocks away from The Boot. She remembered the men with their unwashed white hair and sharp mustaches. The crawfish would be brown, still wearing the swamp mud they had been pulled from. They would be alive, slapping their claws open and closed hopefully. One of the men would spit out the half that ended up in his mouth. The other would take a big gulp and swallowed his whole. He would be wearing a hat made from the bag that comes with a bottle of Crown. He would have fallen over twice already but he would keep biting.
Clay was surprised the daiquiri place was closed. He thought it was always packed during parade season. She knew the daiquiri place was not how to gauge a parade week. She knew it closed early and opened early. Daquiris were a drink for the daytime or the last drink of the night. Tourists rented cars just for the privilege of buying the strongest daiquiri in the South while behind the wheel. She wished Clay knew more about daiquiris.
Clay said he had met a girl. He said she went to Loyola. Rose knew the Tulane girls wouldn’t go for Clay, so maybe a Loyal girl might work out. Rose knew which girl he would be talking about. She had been a Tulane girl and she knew what would happen. The girl would have been wearing a short green dress. Or a long Green Wave t-shirt that went down to her knee. And white shoes. She would have a few beads around her neck. A dozen at most. Too many would distract from her outfit. The girl would come from a Tulane family. They would expect her to marry a Tulane man in her own year. Maybe she would give Clay her number. She would always be too busy to see him. Sometimes it was because she didn’t have a car so she couldn’t leave campus. Another time it would be finals. Finally she would stop picking up. Her first week at Tulane she would have already met the man she wanted to marry and she wouldn’t be swayed, no matter what happened.
“Gil.”
“Rose.”
“Do you remember what they used to wear at the drive-thru?”
“Yeah, sure. Red vest, red pinstripe shirt, purple top hat.”
“When was the last time you were there?”
“Couldn’t tell ya. Probably the last time we went there.”
“It’s been a while.”
“Sure has.”
“You figure they still wear those hats?”
“Clay told me they don’t.”
Rose shook her head and stood up and walked to the front of the porch and looked at the white shoes.
“Let’s go to a parade this year.”
“Us?” laughed Gil.”
“Yes, us.”
“No ma’am, no thank you, not me,” said Gil.
He laughed again and popped his paper and flipped the page. Rose thought he might be on the back page Saints column, which he always read twice when they lost by more than a touchdown.
She thought maybe she would see a parade this year. One she hadn’t seen in a while. Maybe Endymion.
“Gil.” His eyes kept scanning the page.
“Gil, when is Endymion tomorrow?”
“Tomorrow’s times aren’t in the paper. Only today’s.”
She knew Endymion was a night parade. She remembered how dark it would be just before the parade began. Then the torches would come down the street before the parade and the colors would follow. She knew the beads would be the most dangerous part of the night parade. She knew to keep her eyes open for the flying swivels of color. The beads would fly whether she was looking or not. She knew the torches would be bright enough for her to see the beads and the colors in the air and those colors on top of the mud and clay and empties and trash and that would cover the ankles of the assembled before the parade had ended.
