“Bow to the City”

My closest friend was recently sentenced to four years in Midtown Manhattan. I remember where we were when he told me. I was sitting on a hard gym floor and he snuck in behind me, craving to seem just the right amount of eager. Eager to tell a friend the news, not too eager to flaunt it. The sentence was for two years at ninety thousand dollars per year. I smiled and shook his hand. He asked if I wanted to join him, if I wanted a similar sentence. Maybe we could live together. I shook my head and patted him on the back. I hoped he wouldn’t drag me down with him. I’m glad he didn’t sell me out for a shorter sentence. He’s a great friend. Trustworthy and consistent. But I’m glad we won’t be sharing the same cell.

—-

Everything they tell you about New York is a lie, even at it’s worst. All the great religious texts teach that lying is wrong. The God of Judaism is absent whenever a lie is told. The Fourth Buddhist Precept demands that one refrain from “incorrect speech.”

The Christian God detests “lying lips.” To tell a lie is to commit the Seventh Greater Sin of Islam. Taoism leaves space for an ethical lie. One of its basic moral rules is that one still ought not lie.

—-

They’ll tell you the subway is hot and cramped. They’ll tell you that’s the worst part about it. On your commute to work, it might get a little muggy if you’re in a car without air conditioning. Sure, the air conditioning breaks every other day, but you can just unbutton your top button or fan yourself. It really won’t be that bad. Maybe you’ll have to stand because the train gets crowded in the morning. It’s good for your legs. You might be uncomfortably close to a total stranger who is sweatier than you are and only getting sweatier. No worries. It’s only a forty-minute commute from your place in Brooklyn to the office on 72nd Street. It’s really not all that bad. Bring a book or watch another episode on your iPad. It’s just a little hot and kind of crowded.

—-

The subway is hot and it is crowded. A lot of places are hot and crowded. Your local bus is hot and crowded. Some movie theaters are hot and crowded. Invite too many people to Thanksgiving dinner and kitchen will be hot and crowded. And people will be eating your food. You’ve been in a hot and crowded classroom. Chances are if you have a place of worship you it’s often hot and crowded. You temple or church or pagoda is the worst kind of hot and crowded, the type where you can’t move without drawing glares and whispers and promises of punishment from your parents. Mortified that you cannot bear to sweat for the sake of a higher power. But the subway is special. It’s not merely hot and crowded. That’s not enough. It’s hot and crowded and you must sit with your eyes on your feet. You must accept your fate once you have found a seat. No matter who sits on either side of you, no matter how close they sit, no matter how firmly their thighs continue to bump into yours as the train shifts, no matter how loud they shout on their cellphone, not matter how many bags they stack on your feet, you cannot move. In the pipeline of people underneath the city, this great city of culture and commerce and power and freedom and opportunity and individuality, you cannot move your legs or your arms. You are not allowed to move your eyes or your feet. You must clasp your hands in your lap and bow your head, praying to the exalted gods of the MTA that you don’t miss the express. You must stand when others stand, only to cram yourself through a door not wide enough for two people as quickly as possible. You must contort your body, hanging onto a pole to dodge passengers spring away from the heat and the crowd. Then you must sit again, hands clasped, head bowed, now praying to the conductor to shut the doors and fix the air conditioning. But they told you it was just hot and crowded.

—-

No city is free of lies. South Bend, Washington is not a city. It is a town, in the most generous sense of the word. It’s maybe closer to a village. The population is eighteen hundred. More of a hamlet than a village. People in South Bend have lied before and they will lie again. But they won’t lie about their hamlet. There are no buses. They can’t tell you the subway is crowded but you’ll get used to it. There is one traffic light. They won’t say you’ll love your commute. There are two grocery stores, a Chinese restaurant, and a Mexican place. They won’t say they have the best food in the area. The town survives on fishing and welding. They won’t tell you you’ll love your job. Some people love to fish for halibut and salmon in sub-freezing temperatures. You might not. So they won’t tell you it won’t be too bad, life on a boat isn’t that bad. It snows, a lot.

They’ll tell you the city stinks when it rains. There are not a lot of good things they can say about winter in South Bend, so they won’t tell you you’ll enjoy it. They’ll tell you it’s going to be a wet snow that lasts all afternoon and sticks all night into the morning and you might slip when you step off your front step. A lot of people in South Bend go to church on Sundays. They might tell you you’re welcome to tag along. They won’t tell you it will be a fun hour and a half. They won’t tell you that you should go.

—-

They’ll tell you it can be expensive to eat in New York. But the city has the best restaurants in the world, they’ll tell you. If you budget well, it won’t be a problem. Just make a small tithe to New York’s best restaurants. The most diverse cuisine you could ever wish for. You’ll taste things you’ve never tasted. There’s nowhere else in the world where you can eat like you’ll eat in New York. Every meal is a new experience. It’s an experience of a new culture. The food will open your mind. Italian. Mediterranean. Middle Eastern. Jewish delis. The pizza you see in movies. Sushi. Chinese. Authentic Mexican. Come to New York for the food, they’ll tell you. You’ll be a fanatic. You’ll make pilgrimages to Queens for the tacos and you’ll journey to Chinatown for dim sum. You’ll worship at the altar of halal.

—–

They don’t tell you that the best food in the world means you’ll be out of money after one week of eating out. The groceries aren’t cheap either. That mystic deliciousness of halal will get old very quickly when you have to eat it for lunch and dinner four nights in a row. It’s only five dollars for a whole meal. Just a small bill in the donation plate for the temple’s ministry to the poor. That five seems so small, so insignificant until it needs to last two meals. All that halal grease and white sauce and rice and red sauce seems so insignificant until you’re cradling your stomach in your hands the next morning, your belly just a little infant swaddled in your scratchy sheets and crying out for mercy and redemption for its sins of lamb of rice.

—-

It’s the city that never sleeps, they’ll say. You can be up all day and all night every day. You can party any night of the week until six in the morning. You can grab a bite to eat any hour of the night. Someone’s working in every office building every single second of the day. Every artist you know will play a show in the city this year. A concert every weekend for fifty-two straight weeks. The city never sleeps so you’ll never need to sleep. You can work 75 hours per week and still get in at least 20 hours at the bars. Just make sure you juice cleanse every two months.

—-

 

Eventually you’ll start to question the apologists and the forgivers and the fanatics. You’ll realize they’ve lied to you and you’ll have to ask why. Hopefully you’re near the end of your sentence before this happens. That way, you can escape before your next sentence starts and before you have to find a realtor to help you look for another cell you can’t really afford. You need that cell just so you can spend less time on the subway. Everyone had told you it really wasn’t that hot and didn’t get all that crowded. And you’ll ask yourself why you bought in, why you believed what they told you. New York City is still growing. New pilgrims every year. It might gain eight hundred thousand people in the next thirty years. Everyone else must know something you don’t. They have it right, and everyone else is wrong. The food really isn’t that expensive. The subway isn’t really that hot. They didn’t lie to you. You just don’t get life in the city. You’re missing some mystical sensibility, some connection to the city that is greater than you. You just don’t understand. They’ve dove to the depths of the city and come up anew, refreshed with a new purpose and a new desire to stay in New York as long as they can. Maybe they’ll even raise a family in the city. It has some of the best schools, you know. And there are actually plenty of parks for kids and dogs and parents to run around. You should really give it a try, they’ll tell you. Just give Central Park a try. Really, the city is so rewarding.

—-

They’ll tell you the city isn’t really that loud. The noise is all just part of the charm. That’s what people always said about that one lady in the choir who thought Sunday mornings were her chance to impress the opera scouts. The stained glass shook with every high note she tried to hit. But she was such a sweet old lady. So much charm. Things wouldn’t be the same if she weren’t there every week singing her lungs out for the heavens, all for the greater glory of her higher power. It had nothing to do with her failed pop career. It was holy noise. Just like all of New York’s noise. It’s all port of the feeling. That siren that wakes you up every morning should make you feel at home. The train bouncing past your door and into your apartment at three in the morning shouldn’t even be a problem anymore. The house music from the club beneath your friend’s Midtown cell is just a reminder that you should be out on a Tuesday night and not in bed by midnight. The city never sleeps and neither should you. Native Americans used sleep deprivation as part of the visual quests that were integral to their experiences of their own religious systems. A three-night bender across the clubs in Meatpacking is just a vision quest if you try hard enough.

—-

Who knows what you might see. Native Americans sought spiritually empowering dream visions. They don’t tell you what kind of visions you’ll see at a Ne York Club, but they won’t be of the spiritually empowering variety. They might be of the variety you should bring up in confession. They’ll tell you you’ll have the time of your life with the prettiest people you’ve ever seen. They don’t tell you about fifty dollar cover just to get in the door. Or the two hour wait in ten degree rain just for the privilege. Or the beer bottles thrown across the bar. Or those times when the bathroom line can’t move because every stall is occupied by someone vomiting up that night’s fun. Those are the vision quests they don’t tell you about. Surely there were Native Americans who didn’t survive their vision quests. Those must be the quests they didn’t like to talk about. New Yorkers won’t tell you about all those friends who didn’t survive their Meatpacking vision quests.

—-

No, they lied to you. You just can’t figure out why. You would never do that. You’ll find yourself back on the subway. You might be on the 3. Or the Q. Or the 1. You’ll probably be on the shuttle from Grand Central with the inside of its cars all plastered from floor to ceiling with movie propaganda that wraps itself from the front of the train to the back of the train. Every head around you will be bowed, some eyes closed, some eyes staring at the ground, at nothing. All hands will be clasped. You will bow your head and clasp your hands. And you will tell your friend that the subway isn’t usually very loud or hot or crowded.

 

 

“Waves”

Stories about scars are almost always great. There’s usually something painful and gory and gross and crazy and there’s always proof of the story. You can see it and touch it and get really close to it and ask if it hurt and how much and wonder if it will ever heal. So here’s a story about one of my scars. I went to Mardi Gras with three friends. I came back with a skinny red scar that sliced from above my right eyebrow around my eye down onto the top of my cheekbone. Mardi Gras officially ends with a celebration of Fat Tuesday, but the big night is Saturday. Saturday has the biggest parade, Endymion, and it’s the longest night on Bourbon Street, if one night there can be said to be any longer than another one.

I’ll skip what happened between the time we left our apartment and when we returned. Mardi Gras is too much to explain. In that way, I was lucky to end up with that scar. People wanted to hear about how it happened and I didn’t have to try to sum up New Orleans in a two-minute conversation on the way to class. We got back to the apartment with one bedroom and it was my turn to take the side of the air mattress closest to the wall. I was tired. So I dove for the air mattress. The side of he air mattress closest to the wall was also closest to the only chair in the apartment. I overshot the mattress and went face first into the edge of one of the chair’s wooden legs. I hit it hard enough to end up with the cut and a bruise around it. Think Scar from Lion King. It made for a fun story for a few weeks, but I was glad when it healed and I didn’t have to apologize for disappointing people who wanted a better story to go with it.

The point is that scars are overrated. You can come back from Mardi Gras with an incredible scar, but you might not have the story to match. I need to say that because the scars I want to talk about aren’t the ones from the movies, the showy scars on the face of the villain in the superhero movie, the scars that show you probably made a few bad decisions and got yourself into knife fight and didn’t win. Those are the overrated scars. You can do some stupid shit and end up with a scar that looks interesting. Like trying to dive onto an air mattress when there’s not a lot of room for error.

The only scars that aren’t overrated are the ones you really earn. To earn a thing is rare. To really earn it and make it and feel it and know it and know that no one else can claim it. It doesn’t happen often. Maybe it never happens for some people. It’s rare for me. Things can take labor and time and energy and everything you’ve got and not really be earned.

Those are the important scars, the ones you earn. I didn’t earn that scar on my face. It just happened to me. I think the only scars I’ve earned are on my hands. There are scars on my hands that I didn’t earn. A scratch during a basketball game that is still red. A scratch on my right palm. Two cuts on the back of my left hands that never healed quite right. I ended up with those from tripping and falling. There’s no story to go with those. Stuff happened, and now I’ve got a couple little marks on my hands.

Yet one or two of the scars on my hands were earned. Think about hands. They’re something we can’t hide, something always out in the open, always visible. Still, you can fake a lot about your hands. You can fake your handshake. If you want people to think you’re confident squeeze as hard as you can. If you want to seem gentle, skip the vice grip.

My hands are ugly, but I didn’t really earn the ugliest part of my hands. There are a few ugly scars that just happened to me. The ones on the back of my left hand are probably the ugliest. When it gets really cold they turn red and then purple and then blue and they’re somewhere short of attractive. But there are some things on my hands that I really earned. Those rare things earned fully and without regret. Things I knew might happen but that I was ready for. There’s a knotty white line on my right middle finger where the spiky cartilage of a stiff-snout skate left its mark as a I tried to drag it out from under a pile of twenty more unwanted fish. A diamond-shaped patch of discolored skin on my left hand where a halibut’s tooth got caught as I tried to toss it back into the Gulf of Alaska. When you agree to spend a month on a commercial fishing boat in Kodiak, Alaska you expect to earn some things. The scars are one of them. There aren’t many fisherman working out of Kodiak with nice looking hands. One of first stories I heard about fisherman was about one of my captain’s employees who loved to build up callouses by soaking his hands in saltwater. When he didn’t have to fish, he would do it anyway, just for fun sometimes. He liked to do it on airplanes and then peel the callouses, half an inch thick, off of his palms just to see what the person lucky enough to sit next to him would say. So I thought I might earn some ugly hands. Certainly some stronger hands, some tougher hands.

The problem about spending a month on a fishing boat is that you earn things you don’t expect and some things you never wanted. You earn trust. It’s an absolute trust, but maybe it’s too much trust. You earn the trust of people who you really don’t want to trust you because it means they’re going to tell you things you don’t want to hear. Your captain will tell you how he became allergic to chemicals by falling into a vat in a chemical plant when he was a kid and how he has to wear a gas mask if he goes anywhere besides his boat or his cabin in the woods. He’ll ask you what you think about his conspiracy theories and alien theories and you won’t know what to say because you just want him to stop trusting you so much. The trust isn’t all bad. The captain’s wife spends a week on board and cooks the shrimp and salmon and crab you catch as soon as it comes out of the Gulf and it’s the best meal you’ve ever had.

It’s trust that comes out of nowhere and all at once, though maybe you should have seen it coming. You start to earn it when your friend who you see for one week every year, one easy summer vacation week at a beach in Florida, calls and asks you to fish with him for a month in Alaska. He won’t do it unless you do it and he needs the money. His parents run the fleet and own the boat and know the captain and will make sure you’re safe and will put you with the best crew and pay you well. You earn it in six more moments. In one of these moments, it’s going to be too much trust.

You earn it on the first day on the boat. It’s called the Mar Pacfico, and it looks old. It’s a rusty one hundred and seventy nine tons and it’s ninety-one feet long. There is one bunkroom for four crewmembers and the other two crewmembers have been fishing since they were teenagers. John is technically homeless and was living in a shelter before this trip because no other company in Alaska will hire him to work on their boats. He’s the best net repair man your captain has ever seen but he’s called you and your friend stupid and soft five times before you’ve caught a single fish. Oscar, one of the engineers helping you repair the boar before the first halibut run, asks you and your friend why you’re doing this and you’re not sure expect for the money and to help out your friend. Oscar says he hates John and he’s crazy and that you can die on these boats and you should probably go home now. You shrug it off and look at your friend and hope this works.

You earn it again you pull in a big load of sole. You’re fishing for rock sole and you reel in the nets and they’re seething with red scales and bulging eyes and sole on top of sole on top of sole. There’s a pair of half to salmon sharks in the net, to and you have to pull them off of the boar with ropes and hydraulics, but you’ve got thirty thousand pounds of sole and your friend yells and sticks his arms in the air. John laughs and your friend demands a picture in front of the huge haul and John calls him stupid again but you take the picture anyway. You’ll have five more loads like that one and end up with two hundred and twenty five thousands pounds of fish in three weeks. You’ve been on the boar for five days and you haven’t seen land in three and everyone stinks but it’s probably not too much trust yet.

You earn it again when you work your first twenty-four hour day. Your captain finds a hot spot and the nets go out and in and out and in again and your sweeping fish into the hole for hour after hour. It’s too dark to see the water off the side of the boat but the floodlights are too bright to let you fall sleep on deck. You keep earning it when you climb forty feet up the tower at two in the morning when the wheel with the hydraulic wire breaks. Its you and him in ten degree weather forty feet in the air on a boat tat’s rocking with the waves more than it has on any of the trips. You can’t wear your gloves because the wire is thing and you need to be precise even thought you can’t feel your fingers. The nets need to go out now but the wheel has to be put back and hooked up with a new chain. He’s laying face down on top of metal beam no wider than your foot and you’re hanging onto the ladder with one hand feeding him the wire. It takes twenty minutes and you thought you were going to fall three times and he slips once but you hook up the chain and run the wire and the wheel is fixed and the nets go out.

You earn it again when you’re back home for the summer and you get a call from your friend’s dad. He’s Uncle Wig to you, even if you have no idea how he ended up with the name Wig. He’s never called you in your life because he hates using a cell phone. His office in South Bend, Washington, the base for his company’s Kodiak operations, is a whirlwind of papers and documents and open notebooks and unorganized bookkeeping done by hand and without a computer. He uses a fax machines instead of email and prefers to drive parts from South Bend to Seattle, six hours, instead of trusting a shipping company. His daughter quit the family business because he refused to use a computer for payroll and travel for the crewmembers. He didn’t know how to text and wouldn’t answer his phone and it was too much and she quit. A cell phone call from him is earned and it is rare.

He asks if your friend was acting odd on the boat. Your friend is an odd dude. Most off the stuff he did seemed about right. He dove forty feet off the highest tower on the boat into twenty-degree water in his boxers but that was pretty normal. He drove around Kodiak yelling at random people out the window of the captain’s car asking if they wanted to buy weed from one of our crewmembers. That was pretty strange. Trust. You don’t say any of this and just mention that he seemed a little up and down on the boat. Angry some days, giddy for hours of shitty, shitty fishing. But Wig tells you things have changed. Your friend was arrested yesterday. Picked up sitting on the street in San Francisco in nothing but his boxers. He was visiting a friend his parents didn’t know and he started threatening to kill him. Your aunt is headed out there now to bail him out and get him help. You want to help and say you’ll talk to him. All that trust has to count for something.

The last moment when you earn it, the moment you know you’ve earned some trust but you think it’s too much trust, is at the end of the summer. You check your Snapchat and it’s from your friend. No one told you he was allowed to have his cellphone back but you’re glad to hear from him. You open the Snapchat and it’s your friend’s arm. Unmistakably his arm, short and tan and muscular. You work out together every summer and he can always out lift you easily. He’s short but strong. There’s athletic tape around his wrist but it’s dirty, brown turning to black. Grimy, really. The forearm has two deep gashes. They’re parallel, symmetrical. They’re the same length and the same depth and the same color. They will make for impressive scars. The unhealed skin on your palm from the halibut incident and the dead skin on your finger from the encounter with the skate are nothing. The gashes are deep but clean. They haven’t started to bleed but they are a shiny, smooth red. Gripped in his hand is a can opener, the metal guard broken off and the round blade exposed. It’s just about the right size to make the gash. The Snapchat is ten seconds and you replay it. This is too much trust. You’ve earned it, though.

“Ashes”

People will tell you they smoke cigars for a lot of reasons. The buzz. The flavor. The smell. Don’t believe what they say. They’re lying to you. If they want you to think Don’t believe them, either. They think they’re being honest. They’re missing the point. It’s about time. They love the time. Cigars are about time.Don Jaime Partagás y Rabell was born in Spain and moved to Cuba in 1831. He was fifteen. Fourteen years later, he founded his own cigar factory and named it La Flor de Tabacas de Partagás in honor of his family. Partagas still produces some of the world’s finest tobacco and rolls it into more than 10 million cigars each year. They sell Partagas is Havana and Berlin and London and Toronto. It won’t be long before they’re sold in the United States again. Don Jaime was murdered before he was fifty. The factory in his name makes strong cigars. People who know about these things say they are one of the two or three or four strongest cigars in the world. Maybe Don Jaime knew a little something about cigars. Maybe he knew about time.

If you’re a cigar person, the time one lasts is never long enough. It’s a smooth half hour, all warmth and light and aroma and conversation. Otherwise, you’ll spend a long forty-five minutes hoping the tobacco will burn itself out and wondering when you can change your shirt. There’s too much smoke in your eyes and ears and mouth to talk or listen and you wonder how anyone can enjoy this.

Cigars aren’t made quickly. Tobacco plants are kept indoors for ten weeks, but they still need months and months of rain, humidity, and rich soil to grow full enough to make a cigar. The leaves are green when they are harvested but after more months of curing, they are brown and almost dry. The leaves are sorted, bundled, and fermented in casks for two years. Then it’s on to the rollers. It’s been years since the tobacco was planted. Rollers are trained for over a year. There are machine rollers but those ruin a cigar. The rollers cut and wrap and bundle and vein and trim and inspect and finally pack.

A cigar is an ugly thing when it’s done. People say the best cigars burn without dropping an ash. You can see the burned tobacco, grey and dry, hanging on the end of the cigar. It shows you how much you have smoked and how much you have left to smoke. It dangles and it threatens to fall, but it is still there to remind you. It’s used up and it’s dusty and it’s time to mash it on the ground and leave its black soot behind. That’s all that left of that hour. The orange glow is gone and you drank all the whiskey and your friend told you what he thinks. So you called her and maybe you were buzzed because it was the biggest cigar of your life and maybe she thinks cigars are gross and says it’s over and no you can’t see her tonight. You wonder if Don Jaime’s fifty years were worth it and if cigar rolling is a fulfilling job and you open the box and look at the dozen cigars and wonder who would ever want to smoke any of them with you.

 

“Three Cups”

I have no idea what to do in an airport. When I was eight or nine or ten or even until I was twelve I thought I had it figured out. All it took was a little blue backpack stuffed with a boxy black DVD player and a couple of movies. Maybe three if the flight was more than four hours. Radio and Like Mike were two of my favorites. Any ten-year-old boy old can tell you Shad Moss, formerly Bow Wow, formerly Lil Bow Wow, was underrated in his role as Calvin Cambridge. I still think he deserved an Oscar. On the return leg I could usually talk my Mom into a bag of Twizzlers and I was set.

I lost my touch when I was sixteen, I think. The DVD player broke and I was stuck with my laptop, which meant buying my own movies. Usually books were the better option, but I tended to be too ambitious and with my picks and gave up on reading before the plane was at the gate.

I resent the businesswomen who only need a coffee and a folded newspaper and they’re set for a two hour-layover and a four-hour flight and they’ll step off the plane roll out a perfect presentation for corporate in Chicago. Same for the grandpas and grandmas flying with their grandchildren who can’t sit still long enough for Papa or Grammy to eat the sandwiches they brought from home. Those grandparents will be occupied from the second they check in to the second they touch down, grumbling and coaxing and laughing and doing everything they can to make sure the kids don’t embarrass them and everyone in the security line.

But I’m lost in a terminal. Out-of-sorts. Confused. Off my game. I love a good cab ride. Traffic on the way to the airport doesn’t bother me. Especially in South America. That continent has the most conversational cabbies and it’s not even close. Lima is good for that type of thing, but Buenos Aires is the best. This was my second cab ride to an airport in that city. The first one was to a tiny domestic, and I was too tired to speak. This was to the big one, Ministro Pistarini. The airport code is EZE. No one could ever give me a good reason for that. The traffic in the departure lane piles up at 6 AM and doesn’t slow down until after midnight. The EZE terminal isn’t any worse than LaGuardia or O’Hare or LAX. It’s got a boring exterior by Latin American standards. Jose Marti in Havana is orange. EZE is straightforward, glass, white walls, and concrete. The layout makes sense. It’s well-organized and customs are quick. It took a few minutes to check-in, but I put that on my shaky Spanish. This was a Sunday, and Buenos Aires sets aside Sundays for its hangover. People don’t leave clubs until 6, and they don’t leave their beds until Monday. They certainly don’t fly.

I had enjoyed my last night there. It had only been five weeks, but I wasn’t on their weekend schedule yet. I had only been out until 5:30. I felt like I had a good reason to be tired. I deserved some coffee. It was last shot at South American coffee for a while. So I had two cups. The rolls it came with made my mouth dry. So I ordered a third and finished it quickly. It’s nine hours from Buenos Aires to Miami. It’s another hour from Miami to Tampa. Customs in Miami aren’t slow. They don’t mess around with flights from Cuba and Colombia and Brazil and Venezuela. My flight left EZE at 6 PM. I wasn’t in my bed until 5:30 the next morning.

If you like to read while you wait for your flight, you would have been fine. Fifty pages and eight hours of sleep. If you’re a movie person you could’ve knocked out a rom-com and been asleep before they brought the meal. If you drink three cups of coffee that’s stronger than you’re used to, you’re up for all nine hours wondering why you’re Spanish isn’t better or why you forgot to buy your mom a gift at the market or why you didn’t get that girl’s number at the club or why you left your one warm jacket in your apartment or why you don’t have a job lined up for the rest of the summer. You might have no idea what to do in an airport, but you don’t order three cups of coffee. I think I’ll go back to Like Mike and Twizzlers.

 

“Knowing”

I thought I loved her but it turns out she didn’t. “I hate sleeping alone,” she said. So do I, I thought. But I don’t tell everyone. I don’t say it to her. Why would she say that to me? I think she did it on purpose. She said she had had seven shots that night. I didn’t believe her. I had never seen her drink before. That was probably on purpose too. I felt like everything she did was intentional when we were together. I didn’t like that. I mean, everything I did when we were together was intentional. But she knew why that was. She made me die a little death every time she hid something from me. Maybe it wasn’t such a little death. Christ, I knew it wasn’t a little death. It mattered too much to me. She knew it too. She knew everything I knew and she knew that I knew it. I could never tell if she was proud of that knowledge or ashamed of it. She was hiding that too, I guess. Thunder. Snow. Heat. Rain. I want to stay inside. Sunshine. Warmth. I want to go outside. Maybe she knew how to control that. I guess I could ask the doctor about that next time. Can she control the weather? No. But she knows how to control everything else, I would say. Son, you sound crazy. Stop thinking like that. Worry about the flu, instead. It’s an airborne disease, you know. I’m pretty sure mind control is airborne, too. She knows about the air. She has all the information. She knows she has more information than me. That’s impossible, the doctor would say. No one could live if they knew everything.

 

“Red on Grey”

I fall in love with cities easily. Too many of my friends fall in real love too easily. They’re with a partner for a month and get all excited about where things are going. A month later, they’ve broken it off and start aching for the next girl or the last guy or whomever they think they need. I usually think it’s kind of sad. But it might be healthier than how I feel about cities.

Right now, I want to work in Latin America. That’s just because the last two cities I visited were Havana and Buenos Aires. All it’s going to take is a trip to Vancouver and I’ll know the lyrics to “O, Canada” and start eating maple syrup with every meal. I took one day in Paris to decide that it was my favorite city despite the language barrier, coffees that cost six American dollars and restaurants that would not open until ten o’clock.

My friends have loved Jayne and Olivia and Lindsey and Aurienne and Terry and other Olivia and Arthur and Jen. And I’ve loved Cuzco and Managua and Lima and Tampa and New Orleans and Havana and Paris and Buenos Aires. That’s almost every city I’ve seen in my life. Except for London. London didn’t make the list and it never will.

People love to say that London is grey. It’s an old cliché. The sky is grey today. It’s another grey London day. Look how grey the clouds are today. The river looks so grey in the morning.

I hate clichés about cities. They never say enough. Usually it’s the positive ones I hate. New York, the city that never sleeps. Buenos Aires. The Paris of Latin America. That doesn’t mean anything, doesn’t tell you how the city feels. But if you really hate a place, there’s nothing worse than a bad cliché.

London is grey. That doesn’t nearly say it all. London is grey, but it is so much worse than that. It’s a grey that goes on an on an on across a city that takes two hours to cross by subway. “The Tube.” Really, it’s a nice system, but it’s easy to sour on a train that dumps you in rainy neighborhood after rainy neighborhood after a thirty-minute ride crisscrossing the most disjointed city in Europe.

I don’t mind a grey sky. New York is dark for six straight months. Paris is cold and the narrow streets are windy and it’s really not that sunny.

London stopped being grey for about fifteen minutes. Fifteen minutes inside a museum. The museum was probably the greyest building in the city. The Tate Modern is a squat, square concrete box on the Thames. It’s a grey building. The Thames always looks grey.

I saw one painting I liked. It was a dead chicken hanging inside of a wooden box. The canvas was painted a bright, bright red. Shocking against its white wall. I stood in front of it for fifteen minutes without moving. It was a Francis Bacon triptych. No title so I couldn’t even look it up after we left the Tate. After two hours in the museum London was still grey. I missed that red for the rest of the trip. London is in a country whose flag has a bold red cross. You would think there would be more red in the city. There’s no grey on the flag. London needs more red and less grey..

“Prayer”

They always had to gather to pray. Before any meal dinner, the whole family gathered to pray. Before my cousin’s eighteenth, they gathered to pray. He hated every second of the attention and every prayer for better grades and less drug use. Before letting the baby cousin eat his PB&J, at least two of the aunts had to gather to pray. In quiet, tiny restaurants they had to gather to pray, no matter how uncomfortable it was, no matter how inappropriately loud we all knew my uncle’s voice would be. Always gathering to pray. At least on Thanksgiving it made sense. But Thanksgiving was the longest prayer gathering on the day everyone was the hungriest.

It was always my mom who gave the gathering the first go.

“C’mon y’all, time to pray!”

“Let’s go everybody, I know y’all are hungry.”

“Hey guys, everybody is ready to eat, let’s go ahead and pray.”

It never worked the first time around.

There was still football on and it usually wasn’t halftime yet. None of the uncles or grandfathers or cousins payed any attention. Maybe my mom could tally one or two of her sisters.

The aunts. This time around was always a little bot more harsh. People were actually getting hungry.

“Hey, let’s go. Get off the couch.”

“Get up, it’s time to pray. Right now.”

“Brian, Curtis, Leanna, circle up. We have to pray.”

Always blaming it on us, the cousins.

“We’re coming. Wait on more play.”

“They’re about to score, one minute.”

“Sorry, I was playing with the babies. I’m coming now.”

Four plays, a touchdown, and three more minutes with the baby cousins and we’re n trouble. In trouble with the aunts.

“Now!”

“Curtis, get over right now and hold my hand. Let’s pray.”

“Get in the circle right, Leanna. We’re all here.”

It took three or four tries, but we were gathered.

Before we could pray we had to talk about praying.

It was always the same.

“Who’s saying the prayer today?” one of the aunts would ask.

“Jimmy, do you want to do it?”

“I can do it, but maybe Papa wants to do it,” Uncle Jimmy would say.

“Oh no, he’s happy for you to do it.” Mimi would say.

She loved to answer for Papa.

“Now, wait a second. I’ll do it, but let’s ask Steve first,” Papa would say.

Always gracious.

“Y’all don’t want Steve praying today. He’s already had four beers,” Aunt Linda would say.

Chuckles. It was easy to laugh at the uncles.

“Hold on, now. I’ll give everyone the best prayer they’ve ever heard this afternoon. But we should let Father Sam do it,” Steve would say.

He really didn’t want to pray.

Father Sam was the other grandfather. The grandfather to the Greek side of the family.

He was a Greek Orthodox priest, retired. He never turned down a chance to pray. It’s probably not great for a priest to say he doesn’t want to do the prayer.

That has to be sacrireligious or something.

“No, sir. Steve, I’ll leave it up to you. I prayed last year. It’s gotta be your turn.”

Usually it was settled here.

“Okay, I’ll go ahead and pray.” Steve would say.

Or Jimmy would jump in, “I’m ready to eat, y’all. Let me do this one quick.”

Jimmy played linebacker at the University of Florida. He likes to eat. He was usually serious about being hungry.

This year, no one stepped in. People just looked around. There aren’t many awkward moments in our family. Things go as they usually do. According to plan. The normal way.

“Shit, I’ll do it,” I said.

The normal way was boring anyway.

“Brian Aubrey Smith!” That was my aunt. No one uses my middle name.

“Bri, you can’t say that on Thanksgiving,” my dad said.

He usually didn’t care what I said. Maybe that was too much.

“Sorry, I mean shoot. Shoot, I’ll do it. Sorry, I’m hungry.”

“Really,” my mom mused.

“Sure. I guess. I don’t want to let Uncle Steve get embarrass himself,” I said.

When I said it’s easy to laugh at the uncles, I really meant Steve. It’s easy to laugh at Steve.

“I appreciate it,” he said. “You always were my favorite nephew. No offense, Curtiss.”

“None taken if it’s helps us finish this prayer.”

“Alright, Brian, let’s hear that short prayer of yours,” Mimi said.

“That short one’s my favorite,” Aunt Linda added.

“The shorter the better,” from Jimmy.

“I love short prayer. Right to the point,” said Papa.

They think it’s funny to repeat after one another.

“Hey, Bri, is it gonna be short?” from my dad.

No one laughs. He’s always too late. Takes it too far.

“Can I just pray so we can eat?” I ask.

“Y’all be quiet. Go ahead.” said Mimi.

“God our Father, once again, we ask your blessing. Amen.”

That was the first prayer I learned.

It rhymed so I guess that’s why they teach it to little kids. It’s the only one I use because there’s nothing worse than having to come up with a heartfelt prayer on the spot.

My mom hates that prayer.

—–

Thanksgiving dinner is always held at Jimmy’s house. Jimmy the linebacker. It’s Uncle Jimmy, Aunt Liz, Nicole, Melissa, and Curtis. Jimmy’s parents are full Greek. One hundred percent. Born and raised in Tarpon Springs, Florida. That’s the home of the sponge industry in the United States;. It’s also home to one of the most famous Greek communities in the country. It’s deeply Greek and deeply traditional. Every year they throw a cross in a lake. Every full-blooded Greek young man in the Church dives in after it, jumping from dingy little boats that probably should not hold their weight. One kid comes up with the white cross and has good luck for a year. I’m always happy we don’t have to drive out there for Thanksgiving. I wouldn’t know what to do with all that Greek tradition. The most Greek thing we have at Thanksgiving is the grape leaves wrapped around rice and lamb. Unbelievably delicious. Sometimes Jimmy cooks up some baklava. It’s not as good as the grape leaves. The rest of dinner is pretty classic American. I guess traditional would be the word. Traditional would probably be the word for the whole family.

Mashed potatoes with a ridiculous amount of butter. Creamed corn with a ridiculous amount of salt. And a ridiculous amount of butter. Green beans with barely too much butter. Sweet potato casserole with too much butter and too many marshmallows on top. Ham with way too much fat. Mimi’s biscuits that Aunt Linda insists on buttering way too heavily. The turkey is good. I don’t think you can really put butter on a turkey.

The seating situation is traditional. Three tables. Two for the adults and still a kid’s table. Curtis is the youngest kid left in the family. He’ll be 21 in a month. The kids table sticks around because we like it. But it wouldn’t be our Thanksgiving without the kids table traditional. It’s best that we have it, though. The cousins don’t see each other that often. We don’t talk about a lot. We like to tell each other we’re going to travel together.

“I want to run with the bulls this summer,” I say.

“Do they do that in Italy?” Melissa asks.

“No, in Spain.”

“Barcelona?” she asks.

“No, Pamplona.”

“Ohhhh, I want to go,” says Leanna.

“Come with me,” I say.

“My mom will never let me go. She’s too worried.”

Linda. She worries a lot.

“Yeah, she worries too much. You’ll be with me,” I say.

“Doesn’t matter. She won’t even let me go to Boston by myself,” she says.

“Oh well.”

Curtis has different plans.

“We’re all going to Vegas for my 21st.”

“Shut up,” Melissa says. “Dad will never let you go.”

“Are you serious? He wants to go with us,” Curtis says.

“I’m in,” I say.

Nicole just shakes her head and keeps trying to feed Malachi and Joshua at the same time. She’s on her own because Tim, the new husband, likes to sit at the adult table.

He always wants to talk politics with Mimi.

Sometimes we’ll talk about other stuff. Boys and girls, mostly.

“How’s Adam, Melissa?” Leanna asks.

“He’s good. I wish he was here today. I miss him,” Melissa responds.

I look at Curtis . We know they’re getting married soon.

“So when is he proposing,” he asks.”

“Shut up!” Melissa laughed and turned red.

Curtis nods at me.

Linda pops her head n the door.

“Got yourself a girlfriend yet, Brian?” she yells.

She can’t hear so she’s always yelling.

“No m’am, not yet,”

“We’re all waiting in you, she says.”

“You’ll be the first one I tell,’ I promise.

I always make the same promise. I don’t think I would ever tell her.

She gossips enough with my mom. She would find out soon enough.

“You better. Y’all want some dessert,” she asks.

Everyone gets up.

—–

Dessert always comes with a seating change. Mimi always like to talk to me during dessert. She likes to bring up big topics during dessert. Tim talks politics with her on purpose. I avoid these conversastiosn at all costs. Once a year, during Thanksgiving, I can’t avaoid them anymore. Politics and religion. It’s all she talks about. She knows I hate going to church. She knows I never say the prayer when we gather. She knows I don’t want to talk about it. So of course she calls in the aunts so we can talk about it.

“When was the last time you went to church, Brian” Mimi asks.

“On Sudnay,” I say. “With Mom.”

My mom nods.

“When was the last time you went to church without your parents,” Mimi asks.

“I’ve never done that,” I say.

“I mean at school,” Mimi asks.

The aunts look at me. Not a good time to lie.

“I never go to church at school.”

Mimi leans back and scowls.

“I think we need to do something about this,” she declares.

“That’s a good idea,” agrees Linda.

“Good call, Mom,” Liz says.

“Sure, let’s do something,” says my Mom.

“You can’t do anything,” I assert. “It’s school. I have to study on Sundays.”

Mimi believes she can do something. She contends that I need to send proof of one church visit each month or I don’t get any birthday money. I wonder if I am suddenly twelve again. My mom shuts me down, saying I need to have some respect. Mimi theorizes that I should also be the prayer guy from now on. I scoff. The aunts glare. That’s Papa’s job, I argue. Mimi doesn’t think he will mind. He wants the best for his grandson. I argued. The aunts agreed. I’m the prayer guy now. Another good Thanksgiving, they agreed

“Again”

Again. Again. Again.”

“I’m hitting it as hard as I can.”

“Don’t hit it, grind it.”

He looked up, through the glass doors backing the kitchen. The sun had just risen at 7:30, late for a South Carolina summer day. When he had stayed there with his grandmother as a kid, she always told him she would be up with the sun. He tried a few times to wake up before her. He loved to watch her made breakfast. Twice to hit the snooze button only one time. Both times the eggs were on the table before his head broke from his pillow. Once his grandmother had eaten all the peaches before he put his pants on. The sun would come hot and early tomorrow.

—-

The house had been there before the Sunday flea market had begun to draw tourists and it would be there when they stopped driving in from Asheville, though he wasn’t sure when that would be. At that flea market a headstone store had moved in and moved out all while the house was being built. The house had grown up with the pines and it would die with tilted crabapple tree in the yard. The house peeked over the hill, only the brown roof and peaks of green paint above the black wooden doors visible from the road above the plummeting driveway of white marble gravel. It looked so perfect where it stood that the locals laughed. They thought it was tacky. No character. The builder, his great-grandfather, had polished all of the character out of it on purpose. For a man like that character wasn’t something a house could have. If it was, he didn’t want it. This family needs some class, he said.

—-

 

“Again. Hey. Fucking Again.”

“Will you shut up? Give me a minute here.”

“Just playing. You know how get when I’m bored. And fucking hungry.”

“I’ll get it done.”

The bowl rattled to the granite counter, circling and ringing and clanking and circling until it shimmered to a loud stop. He clamped his left hand to his hip, his right hand hanging down at the end of his dangling arm, beginning to curl tightly.

“Remind me why you aren’t doing this.”

“I’m not supposed to handle sharp objects.”

“This pestle isn’t sharp. It just crushes the pills.”

“The patient should not handle items or objects which could pose a threat to himself or others. I’ll show you the doctor’s note again if you want. I have that shit memorized.”

“No, I got it. Who are you going to hurt with this thing?”

“Did my mom show you all those photos in my file?”

“Yeah, they were nasty.”

“Remember the pictures of my fingers? I did that with a spoon.”

“I did that with a spoon.”

“Oh. I guess I should handle this, then.”

“Thanks.”

—-

At one point he had hoped to fill the house with children. His grandparents had always loved when the house was crawling with them. His cousins climbed trees in the front, played catch in the back, tore the swing of the tree across the street after pushing each other for hours. The house sprawled then, wide and expansive with potential. Now, just the two of them, it was shriveled, always uneasy with enclosing only two visitors. He dreamed of filling it with a family. He assumed there would be children, but he spent more time imagining the wife. That’s how he spent most of the time when he wasn’t grinding pills or calling insurance companies or picking up prescriptions or scheduling appointments with one of the psychiatrist’s three secretaries. One of them was nosy, one always forgot his name, and the third was always late to work. “Beautiful Aryan babies,” is what his friend said should be filling the cribs in the master bedroom, the second bedroom, and the three guest bedrooms. There had always been cribs all over the house and no one had ever bothered to move them. Now there wasn’t the money or space or consecutive free moments to even put them in the garage. The garage was stuffed with all of the books on addiction, recovery, self-help, and nutrition that could be found in southern South Carolina. The cribs couldn’t fit, and making space would have meant that the two of them would have to discuss the books.

—-

He never told himself he was imagining his wife, never admitted how much the idea filled his head. He was a romantic, he told himself. Grow up, it can’t happen. You have a bigger problem. A dangerous, pill-popping problem. He thought about her most in the dark. The nights in the mountains were naturally dark, free of the yellow blink of third-world streetlights and the spilled light of half-broken TV sets through thinly woven blinds. That was where he thought he had seen her first. In that darkness, she melted, a bolt of blinding, ski-bum blonde hair sinking into the incomplete, mottled urban darkness. Melted into the surroundings the way he had watched the still sink into the trees when his grandfather sprayed the glinting tin dark green. She would look different in the mountains, at the house. She wouldn’t sink. Maybe he had met her already, maybe he hadn’t. He wasn’t sure.

—-

The Sun did rise early the next morning. He was awake when it rose, listening to the crashes on the other side of the house. The windows in the guest rooms were being shattered again. That would make the third time in a month they would have to be replaced, along with the furniture that was

The first time it was a luxury to replace the creaking splintering furniture from the older wing of the house. The second time he tried to pick cheaper furniture. This time he probably wouldn’t replace it. He walked to the room from which the most recent crash sounded and knocked.

“Leave me the fuck alone.”

“We can’t afford new windows.”

“Leave me the fuck alone.”

“You’re going to have to sleep without windows.”

“You’ll just buy me some new ones.”

“I can’t afford them.”

“Fine. Did you bring me my pills?”

“No. You can get them this morning.”

“Leave me alone if you don’t have my pills.”
He opened the door and walked in. Four of the five windows were shattered and one had a long crack in its bottom half. The desk chair sat on its side beneath the last half-intact pane. There was less glass than usual on the carpet, but there was beneath the window nearest the bed. He spread out the pile tossed the longest shard he could find to the source of the debris. He caught it with both hands without flinching. The glass was already bloody. Maybe there would be kids and a wife in the house after all.

 

“Heat”

The tourists always wonder why Guadalajara is deserted in the mornings. They think it is because of the gangs. Gangs come out when it’s dark. Sometimes it’s still dark at 6 A.M. 7 A.M. So they tell their tourist friends the gangs are why no one is the cafetinas frying eggs and serving coffee or setting up their stalls and hawking mangos and oranges when there’s barely enough light to walk down the streets without tripping on a gato sleeping on the sidewalk. They think everything happens because of the gangs. They like to talk about what they see on the news in other countries and their TV shows with the shootouts and the blood on the bodies. They assume I’m not one of them. I don’t blame them for thinking it’s all about the gangs. But we’re used to it. Everyone is worried about us. The gangs are going to get you in the light or in the dark, they don’t really care. If the day gets too bright too early they’ll just wait until it’s dark again. It gets dark at night in Mexico just like everywhere else. If it’s too windy at night they’ll take care of you during lunch. Guns and knives and blindfolds and white vans work at night and in the afternoon. Maybe it’s 5:30 AM. Some pandillero who just spent all night guarding a cookhouse or driving eight suitcases of cash through six checkpoints doesn’t want to be up shooting at anyone before he can see the sun. He’s asleep just like you and I want to be, but probably in a softer bed with a better A/C unit stuck in his bedroom window and a girlfriend with a bigger ass sleeping on the only pillow in the house that’s not covering a gun. But really, it’s not all about the gangs. We’re not that bad. They’re not that bad.

Really.

En verdad.

En serio.

—–

 

Sometimes in the mornings I thought about what Mama used to tell me. We always talked during breakfast, sometimes before I went to school and sometimes before I went to work with Papa.

Mama, Mama. Yo quiero leche, no jugo de manzana.”

“How do you ask?”

Por favor.”

“No.”

Por favor, senorita.”

“No. En Ingles,” said Mama.

Mama, can I have milk instead, please?” asked Dolores

“Of course, Dolé,” said Mama.

No quiero hablar Ingles, Mama.”

“I can’t hear you.”

“I don’t want to speak English, Mama.”

“You have to. What does Papa always say?”

Ingles esta la via el la cima.”

“Excuse me?”

“English is the way to the top,” said Dolores.

“He’s right,” said Mama.

“But los gringos speak English and they yell so much.”

“Where do you hear the gringos yelling?”

“They yell at all the other girls. At the prostitublo.”

“DOLORES! You do not go down there!”

“Papa took me down there.”

“When did he do that?”

“When we visited tía el sabado.”

“Which day?”

“Saturday. Papa taught me some new English, too,” said Dolores.

“Like what?” asked Mama.

Hijos de putas. Sons of bitches.”

“DOLÉ!”

“And cocksuckers. Mamon. That’s what he calls la policia.”

“DOLORES! You do not speak like that!”

“I know English, Mama.”

—–

Hace calor.

Siempre.

Always.

Really, it’s the heat.

Guadalajara is hot, and it doesn’t cool off at night like it does in Acapulco or Puerto Vallarta. By February, it’s too hot for the kids to come outside and play before school. When it’s too hot for the next Chicharitos and Guardados and Messis to bicker over who gets to play striker first and kick each other in the dust until they’re so late they forget their backpacks in their rush to grab the ball and sprint towards the bell. It’s too hot for anyone to wake up early to frying fifty cent churros for the pasty Euros who can’t wait to get back to the tequila and las tetas. The heat in Guadalajara sits and stinks. I’ve seen pictures of Acapulco and Caracas and Rio. They like to make their heat tropical and pretty and paint their building all different colors. It’s all greens and oranges and reds and blues bumping against each other at sharp angles. A mezcla that looks like one of those blankets they sell in our square as productos tradicionales, all bright yarn and clashing patterns and no anything someone would use in their house. Walk three blocks there and all those colors are whirring and simmering and you might break a sweat. It’s hotter than that here. It’s the kind of heat that slaps you in the back of the head when before you can open your door and then seeps into your chest and down your back and into your feet before you can even decide which way you want to walk. Nothing is green or blue. The buildings are brown and the street dogs that started off grey have brown fur that’s never going back to grey no matter how much they beg for water outside the cafes. The dust and the brown sucks in the sun and spits it back out at your face.

The tourists love to imagine they are in danger. The love to blame the gangs. They forget to blame the heat.

Think of your favorite movie gangster.

Your favorite jefe de las drogas.

Does he seem like the wake up at 5 AM to be on the street by 6 AM type?

I’m probably not your favorite gangster.

We don’t do things like they do in the movies the tourists watch.

I still don’t want to leave my pillow before sunrise.

I think I’ll stay inside until someone calls me.

Where it’s cool and I can rest.

Tiempo es dinero.

Horas de sueno.

—–

Sometimes I think about Mama while I’m at work.

Mama, por qué todos mis amigos tienen que trabajar?” asked Dolores

“You know that I will not answer that,” said Mama.

“Why do all of my friends have to work?”

“You know that I will not answer that.”

“Do we have more money than them?”

“Look at my dress, Dolé.”

“You look fine.”

“Look at these windows. Do you think we have more money than them?”

“No. It looks like we have a lot of broken windows.”

“Exactly, Dolores.”

“It looks like we have a lot less money than them.”

“You’re right,” said Mama.

“Claro. So porque are all the other girls working?” asked Dolores.

“What?”

“So why are all the other girls working?”

“Do you want to work?”

“I already work, Mama.”

“You work for people who protect you.”

“They don’t protect me.”

“Didn’t they teach you how to shoot a gun?”

Si, pero the girls who have to work are protected.”

“Not as protected as you are.”

“Why?” asked Dolores

“The other girls don’t have your father,” said Mama.

“So what?”

“What did Papa teach you today?”

“He showed me how to stab.”

“Was that all?”

“He took me on a drive.”

“And he told you what he was doing?”

Si, claro. And he told me what all the drivers do.”

“Do you think the other girls learn those things.”

“I don’t know, Mama.”

“They don,t, Dolores. They don’t”

“But what am I protected from?”

“Do you like the tourists? The gringos.”

“No.”

“Neither do the other girls. Trust me. They them. You should thank your father.”

“Why?”

“You will not ask questions about this.”

—–

Amarillo.

“Juevos con frijoles.”

Agua fría. Dos pesos.” Cold water.

When the morning is over and the sun is full everyone wants cold water.

They stock the cars with plenty of cold water. When I’m driving there are usually two barrels of it in the passenger’s seat and five or six in the back seat. The border patrol officers see the barrels and all they can think of is cold water and air coniddioning and a cold shower and a dark rrom away from the sun. When I pass a checkpoint it looks like the busted Impala is sinking onto its back axle because of all the water I am carrying para mi familia. That’s what I always say. Just water for my family. They suspect nothing. Work is easy for me. Only the heat and the repetition get in the way. Every morning is the same. Nubes, por favor. Clouds, please. Dios mio, lluvia, por favor. Give us some rain. By nine the sun is up and I can see the orange ring around its sharp yellow core. There will be no clouds or rain. I can smell the grease cooking from downstairs and I can hear the vendedores shouting. I hear American English and I roll over and sneer and spit. I have eight stops to make. It will be an easy day. No one will give me trouble.

For some of the other drivers it is harder. La policia know most of the members in Guadalajara. All of them have been arrested a few times. Most of the officers probably recognize which banditos they have arrested. It’s hard to avoid double takes and closer looks when your both sides of your head are shaved clean and scarred from what was once a fresh tattoo but has now rotted and twisted and knotted and turned your scalp red. The bandanas can cover the markings on the nose and chin but the letters on the forehead give the rest away. For those guys, work is hard. A constant scramble of bribes, smiles, winks, threats, scowls, gestures, nods, and the occasional shot. Every stop a little dance, ritualized but lethal. No one would believe them if they said they were crossing the border with water for their families. They don’t look like family men. They always want me assigned to more dangerous duty. La nina, they call me. “Send the girl. No one will notice her.” They never do. I act like I don’t hear them. Lately they say it more often and they say it louder to let me know they want me to hear. I don’t think I will be protected for much longer.

I wonder if his protection is running out.

Dios mio.

Mi padre.

Seguridad.

Bruja.

Puta.

Cabrona.

Preguntas. Questions.

I am so full of questions, but I do not think they are good. All they care about are the questions as they drag me away. “Why are you talking to the other girls? You are a stupid girl. What do you want to know? What more do you want? Do you think you are that special? You don’t have to work. Stay away from them. Who do you think you are? Do you think your father can still protect you? Protect you from your stupidity? What did you think would happen?”

“We should make her work now.”

“She is too old to work. An old woman. Take her bandana.”

“Get her gun, boludo. No, no, no, hombres. Don’t touch her. Estupido. Think of her father. Her father hasn’t been here for ten years. What can he do?”

“We’ll make her work for one night.”

“She speaks English.”

“Her mama taught her.”

“She would have been our best girl.”

“Her old lady was always smarter than that old bastard.”

Mama would have had questions.

Puta.

Bruja.

No mas preguntas, chica.

—–

“Bow your head, Dolores,” said Mama.

“Porque?” asked Dolores.

“Dolores,” said Mama.

“Why?” asked Dolores.

“Because that is how we pray.”

“I don’t think these statues are going to help us.”

“They’re not statues.”

“They’re statues. Look at them.”

“That is Jesus and that is Mother Mary. They will save you.”

“I don’t think so.”

“Then pray to your father.”

“I thought we didn’t pray to people.”

“Well, you won’t pray to God.”

“Why should I pray to Papa?” asked Dolores

“You should believe in him,” said Mama.

“Why?”

“He can actually protect you.”

“Why doesn’t he have a statue?”

“People don’t put scary statues in churches.”

“Why is he scary if he can protect me?”

“He will protect you. He scares other people.”

“Dios te salve, Papa, llena eres de gracia…”

“Dolores. English.”

“Hail Papa, full of grace, the Lord is with thee…”

—–

Arbol con sangre.

Tarde.

Marron. It is evening and everything is brown and still.

Now I know why Papa taught me how to stab and how to drive and how to protect myself and gave me his protection.

Now I know why Mama always reminded me to pray to Papa and be grateful for his protection and remember that I was not like the other girls and appreciate what my father did for me and what he taught me.

He had taught me so much and I had seen so much.

Sometimes when he took me to work I thought that I wasn’t supposed to see what I saw.

That he would be upset if he found out how man bodies I had seen and that I had seen them hanging from trees and bridges and statues in squares and intersections all over the city.

Maybe he drove me through those places on purpose. So I could see.

—–

 

The tree had never held one of the gang members for very long before. Some of them used to climb it one at a time to tie a rope around its thickest branch and then again a week later, when even the two red bandanas tied over their mouths and noses could not block the smell. It’s leaves were always falling off, crumpling to the ground. The soil was too dry and the air too hot for growth. The leaves grew green for a week or two in the spring and then died, their color indistinguishable from the bark and from the dirt that barely covered the roots. The branches were strong, though. Guadalajara has a dozen trees. Half of them are in the jefe’s backyard. The rest persist around Muchachita, Little Girl Pond, in one of the squares in another neighborhood. Not a neighborhood where the tourists can go. It was once a fertile pond, they say. The water is dark, but it is murky. It is brown near the bank where it is shallowest and the light can touch the mud at the bottom. The light that reaches the trees is marred and broken, peeking through the most cramped apartment towers the city offers. The day is fading, stuck somewhere between the afternoon that has been baked into the ground and the hotter evening that is rising up from it. Nothing is clear: the water, the day, the light. It is an unfamiliar part of the day in Mexico. The day has its heat and its work and the night has its dark and its time to hide away. I just want to get through this in between time. The tourists call it twilight. Ocaso is what I call it. I can hear Mama. “Dolores.” “Twilight, Mama.” Twilight is a nice word for an ugly time. I don’t know what Papa would have said. I won’t be up at 6 mañana. No one will say we should send la niña. I still hurt between my legs and my lip was swollen and my back was bruised. I had watched them climb the tree before so I could still manage. Papa had brought me to this tree to see what happens to the disloyal ones. The ones who talk to la policía or take a cut off the top or want to stop working. Sometimes their whole bodies would hang from the tree, sometimes it was just the head. I tie the three ropes on the big branch and I hope it holds. It has held a body and a half before but never two and a half. It’s really three quarters of two bodies so I guess two and a quarter. One didn’t have arms and I took a leg of the other. The last one doesn’t have a whole head and I start sweating as I tie the rope around an ankle. The rope is a little too thick and I have to pull tight tow secure it. It didn’t have to look nice. The tourists wouldn’t see these. It is dark and I pull the ropes tight over the branch. It is evening and the pond is black.

Hace calor.

 

Still. Tranquilo. Todavia.

“People Talk”

Forgotten in the weeks before they left were the goodbyes and the farewells, the last suppers and the final visits.

Nothing except the rain felt different. The rain had always been home. A descending grey sphere, diffusing and touching everything, evenly and in common. Now the grey was heavier and stickier as it dampened the preparations.

Rake’s grandparents called to attempt a breakfast on the last day, but it was too late. There was packing left to do, and his parents would have found another excuse even if they weren’t so infatuated with that one. It had worked for his father’s last day at the hardware store and his mother’s last behind the counter at the County Liquor

“It’s the same thirty customers every night. Ten of them just left the bar, ten of them          pay me with quarters, and ten of them think I don’t know they’re sixteen. I don’t want        one of them damn screw-ups to tell me they’ll miss me.”

Rake had tried it for his last day of Sunday school, but it didn’t seem to work on his parents.

“Son, we are going to church today and you are getting in that car if I have to drag you to      it by your jacket collar.”

“I don’t want to have church on our last day here.”

“There’s church whether you like it or not. We’re having lunch with Father Clayton               today and he will ask you about Sunday school. What are you going to tell him?”

“I’m going to tell him I liked it.”

“You’re going to tell him which fuckin verse you read and how long it took you to                     memorize and what dress Mrs. Betty wore and that you shared your snack with your               goddamn neighbor.”

“But John stole half of my snack.”

“I don’t care what John did. You’re going say you liked it.”

—-

Rake watched a neighbor leave a tray of food on the good front step one late afternoon. The bottom step shuddered under the weight of a foot and the top step was missing two of its wooden slats, so the middle, faded but stable, offered the only surface for resting the tray. Though it was the only usable step, it had gone years without new nails, and it was always slippery with a sheet mud that the weak Northwestern fall sun could never dry.

She rang the doorbell three times. Rake knew better than to answer and waited in the kitchen until she stopped ringing before he scuffled to the door.

“It was Mrs. Elizabeth,” he shouted back into the house.

“Thank God you didn’t answer it.”

A plain white card rested on top of three pots covered in aluminum foil. The foil was cold. He opened the card carefully.

“We hope you’re doing better. We’ll miss having you next door and wish you all the               best!!! We’re praying for Rake and Melissa.”

Scrawled at the bottom was, “P.S. —- I called twice yesterday and rang the doorbell three times today but no one answered. Wish I could have caught you!”

“Does she think we’re having a funeral? Doesn’t she know you only bring food for                   funerals? Or when people are sick?” his mother barked from behind him. “I thought             they would be happy we’re getting out of here.”

Rake drooped the card back onto the foil and whirred around, presenting the tray to his mother.

“And it’s cold,” she said. “Three cold casseroles. She really does think someone’s                   died.”

—-

Rake was one when his parents bought the house they were preparing to move out of. Their stories about it were some of the only that didn’t bore Rake with retelling. His father had a rotating wheel of reports about his drinking buddies from work that he would tell when he got home three hours after dinner had cooled. Four too many beers, spin the wheel, get the story about Dave, whose wife waited to hadn’t cooked him breakfast in a year. Take an extra shot of bourbon, spin the wheel, get the story about Jimbo and why he got first dibs on the overtime hours even though he wasn’t the best salesman on his own shift. His mother didn’t have any, unless they were about old neighbors who got divorced or new neighbors who yelled at each other and kicked theirs dogs.

“It was a little grimy piece of shit – but it looked nice on your mother,” his dad would             begin.

“We moved in this house back when South Bend was nothing more than three streets,           two docks, and a diner. Back when you didn’t have to pay to dock your boat in the                   harbor.”

The house had been there before the Sunday flea market with its nautical theme had begun to draw tourists and it would be there when they stopped driving in from Olympia, though his father said that couldn’t happen soon enough. Across the road from that same flea market a headstone store had moved in and moved out all while the house was being built. The house had grown up with the pines and it would die with tilted crabapple tree in the yard. It peeked over the hill, only the brown roof and peaks of green paint above the black wooden doors visible from the road above the plummeting driveway of white marble gravel. That was how his father said it looked when they bought it. Rake had watched his father paint it once when he was ten.

“One coat is all she needs.”

It had needed several coats then and several more in the years since. The Pacific rains were salty and they sucked the cheap paint off the walls, lifted the gravel out of the driveway, and teased the planks off of the steps.

Sometimes the story took this turn or that. Maybe his father would remember the old couple with three cats that had lived next door or the time the police came for the man down the block whose garage door was always closed. There was a joke about the broken windows that never really seemed to work. The delivery hadn’t really improved in all the years. His father always finished the story with a summary.

“I came in this town looking for work, but no one wanted to trust the new guy who was         staying at the motel paying in cash. Your mother found a job because her boss was an           old pervert. It got so bad for me that I went to the church to see if they might know               anyone hiring, even for a couple days at a time. Turns out they had this house needed           repairing. Some crazy old widower had died and left it to the church a couple years                 before. No one would buy it because the old man had himself a reputation. Anyway, it           had been sitting there for a couple years and Clayton told me if I could fix it I could have       it until he sold it. I guess it never sold.”

Usually this was a dinner story, but Rake’s father had started in even though it was breakfast and they were headed towards tardiness. Church started at 11:00. On time for his father was somewhere around 11:10, but it was 11:15 and he hadn’t even finished his cereal. Rake usually had a series of questions about working on the house, but that required at least another fifteen minutes.

“So why are we leaving, Dad?” he asked.

His father paused.

“I’m about to tell you about building the front door.”

“Why are we moving, Dad? You built this house.”

His mom swooped in to fill the glasses on the table.

“Rake, are you done? Stop pestering your father and clean your plate.”

“We’re leaving because of your sister.”

“What?”

“We have to move because of Melissa.”

“Why?”

“Your mother says people are talking.”

“About what?”

“About Melissa.”

“She doesn’t live here anymore.”

“But we’re her family.”

“I know. So what?”

“People talk.”

“About what?”

“Rake, put your plate in the sink. You’re not even dressed for church,” his mom blurted      from the kitchen.

“I am ready for church. Dad, I don’t get it.”

“Goddamn it, Rake. Get what?”

“What people are talking about.”

“Honey, not now,” said his mother. “We have church and an important lunch.”

“Damn, you’re persistent, aren’t you?” said his father.

“Honey, we don’t need to talk about this today. Maybe when we’re all settled after the          move.”

“I want to know why we’re moving. Dad fixed this house himself. We should stay here.”

“He’s got a point.”

—–

Everyone in South Bend had heard about Westport. It was the largest fishing harbor in the state. Rake had heard his dad say the really big boats docked in Kodiak, but Rake wasn’t sure where that was. He had seen on TV that the big Deadliest Catch boats docked in Kodiak, but he had heard that they stopped in Westport sometimes to fuel up. He thought Kodiak might be in Canada, but he didn’t think it could be in Washington. It sounded too big for Washington. He had asked his parents about Westport once. They had been sitting in the backyard.

“You don’t need to know about Wesport,” said his father.

“At least tell him where it is,” said his mother.

“Let him go look it up on his own,” said his father.

“I’ll ask one of my teachers,” said Rake.

His mother squinted at his father and flicked a glance at Rake before saying that she needed to use the bathroom.

His father shook his head, leaned back in his chair, and told Rake that he received the greatest piece of advice of his life in Westport.

“If you don’t know what you want to do with your life, work on a fishing boat for a                   month. Then you’ll know what you don’t want to do.”

“I think about that every time I have to teach someone at the store how to use a                       screwdriver,” he told Rake.

Rake could hear the a door close quietly inside the house. He thought it was his parents’ bedroom door.

—–

“Are you serious?” Rake asked his father.

“I am, son.”

“Why did she leave?”

“She said the town was too small for her.”

“You told me Westport isn’t much bigger.”

“I didn’t say that.”

“You said that at dinner the night she left.”

His father stared at Rake and crossed his arms.

“Anything’s bigger than this place.”

“How big is Westport?”

“5,000 people. 10,000 when the season is good.”

“Why would she want to go there?”

“She said she wanted to see more of the world.”

“Where has she been since she left?”

“Alaska, mostly. Canada once.”

“What is Alaska like?”

“About the same here but colder. And darker.”

“But it’s always dark here.”

Rake’s father uncrossed his arms. He touched his hair and crossed his arms back across his chest.

“It’s darker in Alaska.”

“So why are people talking?”

“That’s a different story, son.”

“What are they talking about?”

“Us.”

“Us?”

“Us. Me. Your mother. Your sister.”

“Why?”

“They think they know why she left.”

“Why do they think she left?”

“The people here don’t like us very much, Rake.”

The doorbell rang again.

This time it was a whole family of neighbors.

“For Christ’s sake,” yelled Rake’s mother.

“Keep it down,” urged his father. “They’ll hear you.” He shut off the kitchen light and        sat back down in his chair.

“It’s Mr. and Mrs. Brooke,” said Rake. “I didn’t know they had kids.”

“They don’t like us either. We never introduced you.”

The doorbell rang twice quickly and a third time after a minute had passed. No one moved for the door.

Mrs. Brooke turned and placed a wide tray on the bad first step. The tray wobbled and flipped into the mud under the step. Mrs. Brooke crouched down and put a hand over her mouth. Mr. Brooke placed a hand on her back and said something before kneeling to pick up the tray. The dark mud clung to his light blue jeans. Mrs. Brooke pinched a card from the mud, wiped it with her hand, and placed it in front of the door.

“I think the food spilled,” said Rake.”

“It was probably just another casserole,” said his mother.”

“Should I get the card?” asked Rake.

“It’s covered in mud. Leave it outside,” said his father.

—-

Lunch with Father Clayton was right after church. Rake didn’t have time to sneak into the bathroom to wrangle his way out of his tie and sweater before Clayton slapped him in the back.

“Heya, Rake, how are you on this fine day?”

“I’m good, Father Clayton.”

“How was Sunday school today?”“It was good. I learned about Abraham.”

“Wonderful! How is Mrs. Betty today?”

“She was OK. She wore an ugly skirt.”

His mother grabbed his shoulder before Father Clayton could begin to chuckle.

“Never speak that way about your teacher.”

“It’s fine, Rake. I appreciate your honesty. Ready for lunch?”

—–

“So, how is Melissa?”

“She’s fine, we think,” said Rake’s mother.

“Have you spoken to her?”

“Not for a couple months.”

“She called me last week.”

“Are you serious?”

“I am. She asked about you three.”

“Why did she call?”

“She was hoping I would visit her.”

“Will you?”

“I told her she should see you all first.”

“We can’t see her.”

“Why not?”

“People talk.”

“She’s your daughter. You should see her.”

“People will talk.”

“You’re moving anyway. What the people in this town say doesn’t matter. But you know      they’re not wrong about what happened.”

“Yes they are.”

“Why do you think she left?”

“This town was too small for her.”

“Westport is barely bigger.”

“It has 10,000 people in a good season.”

“We all know that’s why she left.”

“We can’t see her. People will talk.”

—-

Father Clayton told Rake where Melissa was staying in Westport and put him in a pickup truck with a fisherman whom he said attended the church. Rake didn’t recognize him. He took Rake as far west as Randle, a drive of half an hour that took two because a propeller slipped out of the bed of the truck and the man’s employees weren’t allowed to carry their cellphones on the job. They repaired the boats and conditions were dangerous so no distractions were permitted. It took a while for help to arrive and lifting the propeller back into the bed was a four-man job. The man didn’t like to be called a fisherman because he owned and operated the business and coordinated all the fleets and ordered all the parts and made the flights for his crewmembers to Northwest Washington and to Alaska and back to their homes in California and Oregon and Michigan and Alabama.

“Where are you from?” he asked Rake after they had tried for twenty minutes to lift the      propeller themselves and then decided to wait for help.

“South Bend.”

“Where’s that?”

“Washington?”

“What part of Washington?”

“Southwest Washington. On the Willapa.”

“The Willapa what?”

“The Willapa River.”

“Near Seattle?”

“Near Olympia.”

“Is that near Seattle?”

“It’s near Portland.”

“How big is it?”

“We just left it.”

“Oh. But how many people?”

“Like a thousand people I think.”

“Damn, that’s small.”

“We’re moving. My dad says people talk.”

“That’s true. You ever been to Seattle?

“Yeah. I’ve been twice.”

“Just tell people you’re from Seattle. It’s easier.”

“But I’m not.”

“Trust me. It’s easier.”

“What if they ask me about it?”

“Lie. It’s a big city. Tell them you love it. Make it up. They won’t know.”

“Is Seattle better than South Bend?”

“Trust me. It’ll be easier.”

“Can you give me a job?”

“A job? Doing what?”

“Fishing.”

“How old are you? 15?”

“No.”

“No, kid, I don’t think I can give you a job. Maybe in a couple years.”

——

Randle wasn’t far from Westport. Rake had heard they had two high schools and all-you-can-eat fried fish restaurants. He paid for three orders of French fries with ketchup at the counter of the first diner he could find, sat at a booth, and counted his money. He asked his waitress how much a bus ticket to Westport would cost.

“Sweetie,” she laughed, “They’re not gonna let a little thing like yourself buy a bus                 ticket. The rules say you have to be eighteen and you don’t even look seventeen.                     Nobody wants to get fired so you can make it halfway across the state and get yourself           lost.”

He had never been in a taxi but he thought they were expensive, so he didn’t want to take one. His dad always moaned about the price when he came home later than he should have.

“Damn Dave, takin my damn keys like I’m a damn drunk. Cost me twenty-five fuckin           dollars just cuz he thinks I can’t drive.”

He asked the waitress if she would drive him to Westport.

“I’ll pay you as much as I can. I have eighty dollars left so I can give you forty.”

“Honey. I can’t drive you that far. Let me call your parents.”

“No.”

Rake stood up quickly, bumping the last basket of fries and nudging the waitress and he pushed out of the booth.

“Do you know anyone who can drive me? I have forty dollars.”

“The gas alone will cost you thirty.”

“I can pay fifty.”

“Why don’t you just hitchhike? Plenty of people will be happy to pick up a little guy like      yourself. They’ll just be happy to have someone to talk to and they don’t think you’ll            rob them. Or kill them.”

“I tried that already.”

“No one would pick you up?”

“The guy told me I should say I’m from Seattle. I’m from South Bend.”

“Well, that’s just smart advice, honey. People like big city people.”

“I’m from South Bend.”

“Uh-huh. Let me see if I can help you.”

“Will anybody drive this young man to Yakima for fifty dollars?” she bellowed from              behind the counter.

“I’ll do it for seventy,” shouted a man at the corner of the counter.

He was wearing a suit but his tie was slung in front of him dangerously close to a dash of spilled mustard. He had a burger, a beer, and a milkshake in front of him and was making strong progress on all three.

“I only have eighty dollars,” he told the waitress again.

“Offer declined,” she said, nodding at the man in the suit.

—-

The waitress was right. It didn’t take long for someone to slow down for Rake as he stood on the curb in front of the diner, his hand in the air, his stuffed blue duffel on the ground beside him, one foot wobbling in the air as he tried to balance on the other.